It's official

The time has come for my last post.

We have settled into mundane life ironically right back where we started from. The glaring change, this time around it doesn't feel so mundane. Maybe traveling is, in the end about a quest to re-invent ones attitude towards life. Surely this is one of the jewels we have brought home.

We picked the kids up from there first day of school to an unusual enthusiasm, "so nice everyone speaks English!", "I wish Mr. Charles would be my teacher every year!", "every girl in class wanted to play with me!", "We just had free draw like the whole day!". Josh and I joke that the kids got grateful, that anything is better than being stuck in a van with your parents for four months. The truth be told I think we feel just as grateful and excited as them.

I would be lying if I didn't say we left a piece of our hearts in Europe. But for now these tired travelers are glad to have a place to call home full of people who love them.

O's and X's from all of us!

Cold, still and clean Zurich, CH was a retreat after the endless party in Italy. The family caught a cold, bought closed toe shoes and hiked high in the alps. Somehow we happened upon the town where Heidi was filmed, picked apples, hung out at the parks and counted Lamborghini's by the dozen. We saw more friends and were super glad to catch up with those that are neglected by our normally far distance.

We had a brief stop in Freiburg, Germany to see some friends from back home. Josh and I felt guilty hearing about how their kids were doing in school. Crap, we thought, we'd better hurry up and figure out a place to stop for the year. Fortunately we were able to save face when at the dinner table Angelo shocked us all by starting up a conversation about all the different currencies we have seen... Whew, it at least appeared the kids had't lost brain cells over the summer.

We decided to head farther North for Copenhagen before the winter rolls in. To get there was an 11 hour drive through Germany. I had only been told tales of the autobahn in Germany... I was relived to see that there was (contrary to hearsay) a speed limit of 130 kph. That relief was short lived after 15 minutes on the road when it became clear that the speed limit was not obeyed or enforced. We sped up in the caravan to an uncharacteristically fast 85 mph. Still people where blowing past us. Really, going like in the 200's according to Angelo's calculations.

We stopped for the night somewhere in the black forest. We aren't sure if it was the "official" black forest but it sure was dark, rainy and spooky just like the storybooks. It was 1am, behind a Mc. Donald's, in a strange hotel where we managed to get some shut eye. I was amazed that I could sleep with the howling of traffic outside. The "howl" was truthfully more like an otherworldly ghost cry. Even Josh couldn't explain it. After 5 hours of sleep I couldn't stand it any longer and carried everyone to the car to sleep while I drove the early morning shift. It's wonderful the distance you can travel if you head out early. A beautiful gold morning light broke through the drizzle and the miles ticked down. We made it to the car ferry for Copenhagen by 2pm and my new nickname was born, "Road Ahnemal" (you must pronounce this with your worst Arnold Shwarzenegger accent). What a relief Copenhagen appeared after three weeks in Switzerland. Rainy, dirty, salty, royal, unpractical, liberal, friendly and just plain San Franciscoish.

Family

This is where I take a moment to reflect on our experience of Vasto.

I am not sure why I have such a itching desire to see where my family came from. I wonder where I will stop. I don't think i'm ready to take a genetic test and walk the path back to Africa but I am really riveted by the people who wandered out on pilgrimages to unseen lands. I think the world sees California as a land of prospectors and to a certain extent we are. Being in Vasto I kept wondering who my Great grandfather was and why he got on a boat to go to America with his brother, sight unseen. There are the obvious reasons why people move, but then there is the unquantifiable part that separates those that leave from those that stay. Somehow I can relate to this man i've never meet. Maybe we share a gene that seeks to look for more than just the mundane in life. Josh will wake me up in the morning and ask how my "almost mid-life crisis" is going. I have to say it is going really well. One evening we walked into one of the old piazzas in Vasto and found a man putting on a small puppet show, hand made marionettes and the whole bit. The last act was a story where the "old man" puppet had two apples in front of him and the puppeteer asked him to choose an apple. While the old man stood hesitating a calendar behind him changed though years and decades. In the end all you heard was a slow train moving, then and the indecisive old man's chest opened up and he flew over the crowd and into the after life. Even the kids were awestruck. Somehow this kids puppet show seemed validating of our voyage into the unknown. I don't feel like I have figured out the meaning to life but I do think I share some genetics that enabled me to at least pick an apple and go. It is a funny thing to start to see family as a whole entity. I will post some pictures below...

Wedding Pilia

Made it to Pulia, a region in the south of Italy for a friends wedding. We drove out of the mountains of Abruzzo and into a mostly flat landscape. If you have never been there think of stone walled gardens and fields, fruiting cactus, crystal waters, heat and the best mozzarella/ food ever. It is obvious that this area missed the abundant times of the North but what is there is an Italy that hasn't changed itself for tourism. The food is amazing and in this dry land we found the abundance of Italy alive. The Southern Italian wedding was like a dream. Both the bride and groom couple live in the valley but had family come from everywhere. The group was midbogglingly global. It was so fun to see so many people from so many places and languages enjoying friendship together. It was a reminder of how rich life can be because of our differences. We ate and danced, and ate and danced, and ate and danced. A really sensational occasion to be a part of!

Finally a moment where my energy has outpaced the family and I can write. The gang is having a siesta now. We have found this to be most important in Italy since most restaurants don't open till 8pm for dinner.

Where did we leave off? Ahhhh way back in France on our exodus from Spain. After a night in Perpignion we made it to Josh's friend in the south of France in Toulan. We had a wonderful chance to hang out with friends and make others. This is where the kids discovered the Mediterranean. What a treat, accessible, safe, warm sea water. A couple weeks latter and we still can't get over it.

From Toulan we drove a rainy day to Vernaza (the town where Josh and I married) in Italy. It was a treat to show the children the church where we got married, hike to neighboring towns, boat, dinner with Il Priete and just be in a very magical place. On first arrival Angelo couldn't believe how the kids of the town could play around town with ought their parents. By the end they were feeling the liberty's of Italy and racing around town independently.

After Vernazza we decided to head to Vasto (a city on the adriatic coast where my Grandmother's family is from). We made a couple day stop at a farm outside of Montepulciano and enjoyed the Tuscan countryside, wine, and hot springs. A short day drive and we made it to Vasto. We figured we needed to sit still for a while, organize ourselves and take a vacation from traveling. This may seem like a funny idea but being a homeless vagabond with three young children carries with it an intensity. Our high moments are so high and our low are so low. One minute where getting carjacked and the next watching a beautiful fireworks display. We have experienced so much I think we all needed a break. Thus Vasto for three weeks.

I think we are all getting introspective at this point about what this trip means. Apollonia mentioned that her friends must be wondering who she will be when she goes home. I asked her what she meant and she thought for a while before answering, "Like now I am kinda French". "French?!" "Yeah, I'm the type of kid that wears bikini bottoms with ought the top." For me I know that European kids start school the middle of September and I would like to figure out where we will stay. Josh has just started the Job hunt but all of Europe it seems is on Vacation for the month of August. We'll see what happens but employment aside if we all had our druthers a year in Italy sounds pretty good.

The eight O'Clock church bell has rung and the kids are up from siesta so it is time to sign of for now. More sooner than latter... I promise. Four stops in three brief paragraphs is silliness. Thinking of you all at home.

After Biarittz

This story is typical of the way things go when your traveling wild in the world with ought a plan. Well, we thought we had mad a plan to go to Toulouse and then on to visit friends outside of Marsille. We got the car packed, started off to the moterway, pulled out the atlas and decided since geographically we were so close to Spain why not spend a night in Barcelona instead. Besides neither of us had seem the Pyrenees mountains and we could drive through the micro country Andora la Vella on the way.

It was sunset when we made it into the mountains, we were planning to camp but it was getting late, and we were starving so we ot a bite and happened upon a music festival in some small village. A bad duck confet, basque square dancing and a park trip latter the whole group wanted to sleep in some shelter so we hoped in the car to look for a hotel. Before we knew it we were 15 minutes out of town with only a palace to stay in. Josh told me not to convert from Euros to dollars and it would all seem appropriately priced. I slept like a baby and was ready for Barcelona the next day. On our drive in we had seen signs for a grotto with cave paintings so we thought it would be cool to see some 15,000 year old art. We followed the signs to what looked like a archeologists theme park for kids. Fake cave water falls, demonstrations on how to make fire ect... All was dandy till we tried to find the caves. Apparently we had paid $80 so the family could in a pinch have some skills to live in a cave. I have to confess when I found out that it was a two day wait to get into the caves I got emotional. It must not have been an attractive sight to have a grown woman sitting on a bench, tears streaming and whining about the suddenly most important thing ever. I think I actually said, "by the next time i'm in the Pyrenees mountains I might be a blind old lady". Only a art dork would feel so wounded.

I managed to pull myself together (barley) and we all got in the car for Andora and then Barcelona. The sensation of driving up into the clouds helped ease my pain and by the time we were in Andora I was recovered.

Josh and I started thinking about how great it would be to settle in Spain for the year, learn spanish and eat lots of paella. The fantasy ran wild and we were all set to settle in Barcelona. Dusk again, we made it to Barcelona. I saw Sagrada Familia from the freeway so I knew where to get off. We started driving around checking it all out, looking for a place to live and a room for the night. Things looked rougher than I had remembered pre kid, that dark wild spooky side of Barcelona just started looking spooky. Narrow alleys with grafitti and rough men lurking. At one point I looked at josh and said, "if my parents sold my house, took me away from all my friends and ploped me in Barcleona I would be scared shittless". Josh was still high on the spanish cool-aid and told me to be quiet.

We found a nice area and Apollonia was doing her I have to pee freak out so I let Josh and her out at a hotel and I circled while they did there thing. This is where at a traffic light on a busy street I see a man walking to the car. I am getting good at ignoring people in hopes that they don't talk to me in a language I don't understand so I did my thing and started rolling up the window. Next thing I knew he was at my half rolled window telling me to get out of the car. I slid my elbow over to lock the doors with my finger still on the window button. I realized the passenger window was likely down and looked to the right to see another guy walking up the side of the car. In a surreal flash I heard the first guy pulling at the door handle trying to get in. Josh thinks it is so great that I did the right thing by not letting them in but it wasn't bravery. Some things just are not an option when your kids are concerned. I got a real sense of how f**** up this was with guy two showing up so I started to pull over into the clear right lane. Not sure if guy one moved because I was starting towards him with the car or what but before I knew it they had vanished and I back around the corner at the hotel. I double parked and lay on the horn so that Josh would come out with ought booking the room. He got in the car with stories of a drunk belligerent irish group and after swapping stories combined with Angelo's fear of Espana we decide to head for France.

We pulled over at some small town to grab a bite and sat on a patio and watched the most amazing half hour fireworks display. We all felt better reaffirmed and ready to pull through to France. Suddenly learning to speak french seemed completely practical. I wonder what rents are like like in Paris?

To much for one post!

Lots to cover so here we go...

Paris was AMZING. Angelo spent his 8th birthday at the eiffel tour and eating a parisian macaroon cake in a small french park complete with topless sunbathers, smokers and well dressed children. At dinner we had the waiter bring a candle in Angelo's creme brule. Angelo looked very upset when the whole restaurant sang happy birthday with heavy french accents. I asked him what was wrong after the excitement died down, "I just was hoping they would sing in french". That disappointment aside we had a magical time in Paris. Doing nothing really. We coveted parisian style, shopped at the big yearly sales, went to pocket parks and just enjoyed the amazing eye candy that is Paris. Angelo wanted to save a wrapped sugar cube it looked so pretty. I felt that way about everything.

In Paris we rented a car an drove to Antwerp to pick up our van. We picked it up in a warehouse district, fields of corn and cows grazing between the buildings. We dropped the rental off and drove to Lille france for the night. It was a great thing to ship our car. So nice to have something familiar, bikes and a place for all our junk. Three kids on trains and taxis around Europe... every bag of luggage feelt like the weight of the world.

From Lille we headed to see Josh's cousin who lives in a farm outside of Mayenne. We got to check out french country living and try out camping in the van. It felt like heaven to be parked under a fruiting cherry tree on some farm in france. We really relaxed for the first time on the trip... that is until mid-day we heard Angelo scream, "AHHHH, Babe is hurt!". We rushed outside to see Apollonia standing on the gravel driveway blood dripping from her face. Since this wasn't the first head wound suffered by her I new the ropes. Pressure to the cut on her forehead and a trip to the doctors for stitches. Were talking an inch long gash between the eyes. At the french country hospital they were very confused by us. I guess they have english speaking patients but never from america. Fortunately Josh's cousins girlfriend spoke to them in french. A nice doctor glued her up and told us to look for any signs of infection. O course by the next day we could see under the glue an infection was brewing. I was not looking forward to going to the hospital again and having to explain that in America our phone numbers are longer and we don't have green health cards, that our health insurance will pay them directly. Anyway I did what anyone who has delt with a bureaucracy in a language they didn't speak would do. I sent in my husband. Josh did amazing, Apollonia got her cut cleaned, stitched and even got awarded a certificate of courage. They did ask Josh to pay which he did. Do you know how much it costs to go to the ER in france two days in a row and get stitches? $80! Prescription medication? $10 I think in the US our co-pay for one ER visit would be more than all combined. That evening we decided to stay in Mayenne at the farm and even got a cool tour of the cousin's bronze casting studio.

From the farm we headed down and over to the atlantic coast. We stopped at country farms and bought fresh milk and cheese. Tooled through little villages and eventually made our way down to Biarritz a surfer town on the border of Spain in Basque country.

It is almost time check out at our hotel in Perpiguan so I have to sign off. I will try to catch everyone up tonight on our time in the Pyrenees mountains, attempted car jacking in Barcelona and one long night of driving to make it back to France.

England

Well, yes, we made it across the pond!

England always hits me in a strange way. I'm not sure why. Maybe waltzing through security with my UK passport makes me feel as though I should like it more than I do... feel more nationalistic. I still find it magical, oddly familiar and so tormented. There is a dark underbelly that is moody and deep but also beautiful.

After some days in London with my aunt and girls we trained to Edinburg where Josh had a meeting. I had no idea what a grand ancient place it was. Eye candy everywhere, narrow stars leading to tunnels to secret gardens. I half expected to see dragons fly over. We meet with friends and while we ate the kids made friends and played in series of stone walled gardens till sun set (12 or so).

After a couple of days we drove 2 hours south to County Durham in England where my mother was born. We stayed at Lumey Castle, complete with ghost stories, candle lit passage ways and high tea in the library. If London wasn't enough immersion this was it. We drove into Durham and visited the grand cathedral, my mothers house, ate indian take out in a park/cemetery. Such and odd feeling to be in a place where my ancestors had been for centuries. Walking the same cobblestone paths. I really have no equivalent in America.

On the way out we drove through the moors to the small town of Cotherstone where my grandfather was born. If you have ever seen All Creatures great and Small this was it. Sheep, farms, little churches, overcast and misty. We stopped at the Thorney Rose for Lunch. Angelo begged to bring his milk home and after a big scene I realized it was fresh. Poor boy had never tasted such good fresh milk and was desperate to save it. I went out to the car and found an old water bottle to transport this precious lot. We hiked down to the Hauge where the family used to picnic. Apollonia picked wildflowers, we looked for fairies and maybe spotted a few.

All this wholesome fun and then a short drive down to the London area where we again saw the American corporate take over thriving. Mc Donalds everywhere, Starbucks, grocery stores with cloths for sale, prepackaged food. Some of it is shockingly more American than America. I even wound up shopping at the Asda store and looked down at the receipt to see a note thanking me for shopping at a Walmart store. AHHHH!

We are here by Briton now visiting Josh's side (more on that latter) before taking the ferry to France.

Pictures below...

Up late

Up late in Philly wanting to catch up before we move on to London tomorrow. I can't believe that we aren't overseas yet! The suspense is getting to be to much.

We are staying with my step sister in law. I haven't ever spent much time in Philly and I am pleasantly surprised. Great old architecture, tree lined streets, east coast summer time. The first night we arrived the kids went out on the porch and caught fireflies, played in the downstairs rec room and experienced a real and new slice of americana. This sure is one great big different country. I feel like we just keep getting more Norman Rockwell the further we get. It's not just the fireflies, day before yester we actually found ourselves at the liberty bell. I know some of you have raised eyebrows since we didn't send Angelo to a good hippy school but that kid gave me a whole rundown on the liberty bell and it was pretty cool to have my 7 year old teach me about US history.

Yesterday we went to cousin Adams championship baseball game and I think I saw Norman painting at the edge of the field. I started feeling my east coast roots and we cruised home listening to Frank Sinatra on sirus.

You may start to notice a pattern of discontent a few days into a place and today must have been that day for me. I started seeing all the things that hold this city back from becoming a real world class destination. Love it but I have to say to live here I would need a little Marin in my Philly. We went to the children's Touch Museum today where there was an exhibit called something like mini Mc Donald's. Kids could actually play make your own burger and fries. I couldn't believe I payed money to have my children advertised to. Where is the bay area discovery museum when you need it? Oh yeah... Marin. Needless to say I will have another night sleep dreaming of a hilly city where the people are self righteous, colorfully dressed and seem to be having a whole lot of fun.

Tomorrow evening we fly to London. Let's see how England is. Apollonia and I were chatting at the cafe today and I was explaining how this may be her last Izzie soda for a while. She looked at my pensive face and said, "that's ok since everything will be fancier over there". "What makes you think that things are fancier in England Babe?" She rolled her eyes at me and waived an exacerbated hand in my direction, "you know." "no I don't", I explained. "ugh" she said,

"the queen! Everything is supper fancy for the queen". Sometimes I wish I were five.

I can't count the days anymore. Sometime CO Springs

Colorado Springs, before dinner this post was going to be all about how cranky I was getting. How i'm sick of nice people, non-coneccting sidewalks, strip malls, sprawl, driving everywhere. After a second encounter I also felt the need to trash Walmart. We'll now post divine meal experience I have a few nice words also...

Really the time here has been great on the family level. All six cousins playing non-stop, swimming, hiking, summertime BBQ's and all that jazz.

I'm not sure what to call my hormonal bitchyness, could it be snobbery, to many bad latte mornings, suburban confusion, to much camo? I suspect I may be suffering from being away from a real city to long. I just don't understand this strange townurbia type land.

Yesterday Josh went for a walk out of the apartment complex to get a latte for me. He had seen a sign at the strip mall where we turn to the appt, for Starbucks. Seemed simple enough but he got down the hill and couldn't find the Starbucks. He circled around till he wound up at the corner standing under the 20ft sign and still couldn't see it. Finally someone took pity on him and asked if he was looking for the Starbucks. Turns out it was in the King Sooper grocery store. We keep having moments like this so today we stayed around charming (really) Old Town. I felt somewhat normal being able to walk around from store to store with ought getting in the car. I must say I still get edgy in every store when the clerk is nice to me. The people around here are really, really nice. My city self keeps thinking the nice folk are trying to scam me somehow. You know how in a city to nice people are scammers? After days of niceness I've come to terms, out here they aren't out to get me.

This town offers up many shocking contrasts. Beside all the crazy nice people there all a ton of just crazy crazy people. I know San Francisco is full of the disturbed and eccentric but I'm not familiar with this brand. I actually saw a man running down the street in a riot vest with arms strapped to his body. No, he wasn't making a statement, believe it or not I think he was just out for a jog. The feeling of military is everywhere men in air force jump suits, dessert camo, green forest camo and today I saw a first, some sort of grass camo, a youthful fellow running up and down a busy street with fake grass and netting hanging of his forest camo gear. So much camo and so little time so I decided to give a special shout out for the best camo outfit... The winner is the Manitou Springs Man. Who is he? A perfectly strange CO man in his mid 50's walking his Australian shepherd in a camo miniskirt. Ok, you may be saying, we have seen those... but have you seen them packing a piece? Yes my friends a camo mini and a hand gun on his hip. Distinctly Colorado.

Watch out Philly here we come. Can we get more American?

Day 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 New Mexico

Our time in Santa Fe...

Day 4 we were happy to have a home cooked meal waiting for us, Josh's dad's special pasta and red sauce. It was a welcoming place to spread out after a cramped 8 hour non-stop drive. New Mexico is about as different as you can get to life in San Francisco. A state of only 2 million people, parking everywhere, dry and warm, spacious and open, big sky, relaxed, slow, and lots of bright sun.

We woke on day 5 ready to get things in order... car wash, laundry, cell phone shenanigans, a NM green chile lunch. Latter that evening we went to a event called music on the hill where the kids played with soccer on the grass.

Day 6 we tooled around canyon road art galleries and got food for Janie's (my mother in law) Birthday dinner. We planned a small gathering of Marianne, her friend Gordon and the gang of us (grandparents and BB's). At dinner hearing of our rogue journey Gordon shared his tale of how he wandered around Italy looking for a place to start an artist recency program. He told us of how he toured by car around Italy and finally found land in umbria. The purchase then took two years to buy from the catholic church. You could see on his face how wonderful his memories of seeking were. Gordon then explained how he felt let down after the purchase. He had so enjoyed the presuit. Hearing this was validating. Maybe we arn't crazy to just wander around as an family. Seeking might be the whole fun of it.... The no plan plan. I have to remember to embrace this fluidity we have given ourselves since I

know that settled life has many plans and obligations waiting for us.

We all rose early the next day. Josh, his Dad and the big kids were going rafting down the rio grand. They came back all excited, telling of cold water, perfected paddles and a cook out. While they were away Janie and I went to my favorite place for lunch, Casa Sena. Set in an old adobe courtyard you feel like a part of wild hispanic NM. I know i'm a sap for old ghosts but I love Santa Fe.

That evening Josh and I went out for a date with his SF friends Charlie and Karen. We were supper glad to get open table reservations at the new hot spot in town, Restaurant Martin. Special because the owner Martin had battled on iorn chef. We are food dorks and got a kick out of it. So nice to have undistracted conversation with friends.

Day 8 we had Tago and Odessa for brunch and then went with Nini

and Popop to the Thirsty ear Music festival at an old Western movie set. What a fun atmosphere, we all got blown around by dust storms, learned to two step, and Josh got to sit in with the african drum circle.

By the time the sun rose next morning it was time to leave. Josh and I felt nostalgic and sad to leave the old house for sale. We knew that this might be our last time to spend with all those smells and sounds. We left town and then decided to stay around for one last farwelle night.

This turned out great since we had a chance to take the kids to Bandallier National park. This a park with the former cliff homes of the Pueblo people. At the trail head some hikers pulled me aside to say they encountered a mama bear with two cubs on the path. After this news Josh and I took a moment to decide. I looked at him and said, "in our old life we wouldn't have gone on, F@#* that." I picked up a big walking stick and of we went on our new life of adventure. We didn't run into any bears and likely the bear ran from our noisy family. We sure did have fun doing the exhilarating clim up eight ladders on the cliff face to get to the ceremonial cave. Durham sleeping and hanging in the front pack around Josh was a show stopper.

After the hike we stopped at the tesuki village market and had a bite on the veranda. After we went for a run in the sculpture gardens and made it home in time for one last dinner at home.

It felt epic to leave the family home in the morning of day nine. What a great family home to miss. I know Josh feels similar to I that it will be a big loss for the kids. Out the slow gate and on the road to Colorodo Springs.

Scroll down for pictures...

Day 2, 3 and 4 Am I schizophrenic yet?

These three days have become a memory montage of highs and lows, dessert landscapes sweeping past me at 75mph, long moments of no ac, religious sky's, air conditioned dinners, a 1900's western hotel suit, 112 degree heat, leathery mechanics, one wonder of the world, tow trucks, fine dinning, rental car, Walmart barstow.

I'll begin at the morning of day 2, all innocent enough. We managed to sing with ought fighting and headed out by 7am. It was looking like a great day ahead just and easy day drive to flagstaff. We all were loving life, the scenery California farmland, rolling blond mountains, trains snaking around mountains. We snacked on fresh strawberries picked up at a local farm. This may sound so cheesy but I felt so proud of this fine land, so connected with classic americana, so glad to show this to my kids.

Then we hit the Mojave desert, old ghost towns, and yes heat. Josh suggested we pick up some water just in case and I agreed. We took some obscure exit of rt 66 and wound up at a small grocery store/ post office. I wanted pictures but felt it would have been an intrusion. Just think low 70's architecture, hand written signs, american flags and one or two of any item. In the fridge one carton of milk next to two packages of dark brown sausages, you get it. One thing in plenty water, make that three gallons of desert springs please. It was early maybe 10am but the heat was close to 95. We hoped back in the car and it happened that vibration that could be the road but you know isn't. We knew there wan't anything substantial until Barstow 2 hours away... I was a tad stressed but that would be a fine stop and chance for lunch. I got distracted by talks of bobcats and sure enough we made it to Barstow.

Thanks to the world of smart phones we looked up a mechanic. Josh took the car to get looked at while the kids and I ate at out new favorite Mexican restaurant... Casa Jimenez. A strange place one can only find in the dessert. I can see the owner coming up with the concept, "perfect, that's it let's fill the place with my trophy kills and serve up some bomb mexican food honey". We saw to Durham's delight Zebra, Elk, Deer, Bear and a Jackalope to name a few of the stuffed trophies.

Josh came back with the car at the end of our meal. News flash it was Sunday in the middle of nowhere, no parts and not worth stopping for a day to fix. Crap! All this and Durham was spiking a fever. We decided to fix the problem in Flagstaff the next day. I know what your thinking... mistake? We'll were hard core and just kept going.

Really everything was fine till 20 minutes outside the town of Needles. That's when I started feeling warm air blowing on my face. Josh and I were tense by this point and he proceeded to argue about how I was imagining things. A few minutes latter there was no denying it, 112 degree heat, no A/C, and a sick baby. I did what any Mother would, I panicked. I am a soft San Franciscan. I wasn't even sure if it was possible to live for long outside in these conditions. I tried to hide my panic... to Josh: "Get the water now! Start wetting the kids!" to the kids: " Okay, who wants to have fun and get real wet". The remaining 20 minutes to Needles was long. The heat felt like getting cooked, really cooked, like in the oven cooked. Raw fooders only heat there food to 105. By those standards we were spoilt.

Well we did make it to Needles and it turns out our San Franciscan bodies are more resilient than I knew. I pulled straight into the first place and nearly only place a Mobile station. Still panicking I grabbed all the kids out of the car and ushered them into the store to get cool. Josh went over to shop talk with the "leather boys" who worked there. I'm not sure what the interaction was but Josh came over to me pissed, " that guy is such an a****. They said they only did brakes and tires and to push on through an hour to Kingman." I looked over at the three mechanics on duty, all sitting on white plastic chairs, leathery and almost petrified. Before Josh could blink I had the hood of the car open ready to fix the dam A/C myself. Josh started getting pissed with my huffy antics. After a quick look he saw the problem, a twisted belt. I walked over to the leather boys, sick baby in one arm and asked them if they thought they could fix a bad belt. "Yup, but you'll have to pay an extra 40 buck to go get the belt". They got the air running again despite some tense looks after they noticed the Obama sicker on the back of our car.

We got back on the road and made it to Kingman. By the time we pulled up to the hotel the car was jerking so badly Josh couldn't drink with ought splashing his face. The car was undrivable but we were safe at the Springfield Mariott. Still Sunday and 147 miles to flagstaff but we had a plan...

On rising day three we cashed in our AAA 200 mile tow and had our nasty beast towed to Flagstaff while we popped in a rental. I must say that all the people we met minus the leather boys were so nice. Just plane nice, unguarded real people. I started to see why country folk think city folk are mean and hard. Next to them we kinda are. With a group effort somehow we got our car fixed with just enough time to get to the grand canyon before dark.

If you've never been to the Canyon go! We parked and managed to get out to the rim for the golden hour before sunset. Few things compare to how I felt looking out at that big sculptural land. We all got quite and watched, serenaded by an old asian man playing some stringed instrument in a classical soft whisper. For a second I eclipsed. We all walked up the ridge a way and we noticed it was dark, we were hungry and needed a place to sleep. Josh had fond childhood memories of the Trovar restaurant so we wandered up to it. The kids and I played in the old lobby full of more animal heads while Josh got a room. We walked up the stairs, down a hall and into what felt like heaven... the Santa Fe suit. We walked into a piece of 1900 southwest history, a grand room with two big beds and double doors opening into sitting room. We called room service and I smiled a big smile. We put the kids in the bath and managed to open every complimentary conditioner, lotion and soap we could find. I pulled two soft big robes out of the closet and wrapped Angelo and Apollonia up. They watched a movie and ate dinner in one room while Josh, Duham and I had a nice romantic dinner in the other. Yes, the Grand Canyon was good to us & worth the trek to get there.

In the morning, day four we just drove, drove and drove no stopping till we made it safe and sound to Santa Fe! Feeew! We get to stop for a while.

Day one

We have managed to get through and even enjoy our first day of driving. After hours of packing we have paired down our worldly possessions to, two duffel bags, a swim bag, a snack bag, a toy bag, a jacket bag, camera bag, computer bag, toiletries bag, and a multipurpose "important" bag. So much for my idea of two bags and nothing else. I just hope we start shedding our bags soon cause I'm not sure we could even make it to a airport gate with three kids and all these dam bags. Once finally on the road we continued with my childhood song line up, where on the road again, were on our way but we don't know where were going and a new one to the list... Make new friends. I'm sure you are all thinking we are a sacrine leave it to bever family... Well you havn't sang with us. By the third or fourth round of make new friends Angelo decided Apollonia was singing to load and tryed nicley to get everyone to sing in a whisper. The loud lady decided to challnge our quite singing and before I knew it chaos was loose in the car. The compeating yells of the kids sining at top volume with Josh trying to calm things almost drove me to pull over. Thankfully everone was calmed down by our arrival at in and out. Yes, my friends we were only as far as daily city. We enjoyed our last SF meal (per Apollonia's request) speeding down 280, geasy fingured but quite. Now at the end of a long day the kids are saked out in the car, all a bit desheveled but awfully sweet looking. Angelo is on the drivers side in zip off pants, topless (as he has gone all day) and looking very "country". Durham is in the middle and despite using half a bag of wet wipes on him today he looks as though he rumbled in some vomit, bean burritto, strawberrys and fake chesse smeared all down his front. Apollonia is behind me looking very normal and maybe even angelic. 40 miles to Bakersfield and it sure has been a full one. Love to you all & goodnight.

Beginnings and Endings

This week has been one filled with endings.  The fun of dreaming about our trip has passed, the real trip is almost here.  That feeling when saying goodbye... a shocking reminder of how much we will miss.  

Goodbyes of the week have included:  Friends.  School.  Work.  With every farewell I feel compelled to explain, justify or make sense out of what we're doing.  The real truth is Josh and I just woke up one day and decided to try something new.  We don't have a big script for our time abroad.  We just jumped out of bed one day with a burning fire and here we go.  

We head out next Saturday driving to visit family in Santa Fe, then Colorado Springs.  Flying from Denver to Philadelphia and then Philadelphia to London.  Once in England we will ferry to Holland to pick up our VW camper van.  The rest no tickets or script.  The five of us in a van camping around Europe and looking for a great spot to settle down for fall and school.  Here we go on the way to there...